20.6.11 Belsay Castle, Hall and Gardens

19.6.11

Today we drove from our parking spot between Belsay and Ponteveld?? Near Newcastle (upon Tyne) back a mile to the English Heritage property Belsay Hall, Gardens and Castle. We arrived just after 10 am (opening time) ready for action. It was a stunning property, the gardens were the highlight (they were on the map/brochure I’ve had for years of English gardens to visit which is how I learned about them). It is described in the English Heritage guide as “a fine medieval castle, enlarged into a Jacobean mansion; the imposing Greek Revival villa that succeeded it; and the outstanding plant-rich gardens linking the two buildings.” It was all created by the Middleton family over more than seven centuries, started with the castle in the 14^th century.

We were there on a sunny day, we started with the garden as it is the highlight and also because we have learnt not to expect the day to stay sunny even if the sky is bright blue without a cloud around. It was actually quite warm and pleasant. We started with the terraces, watched the croquet club playing, and later got chatting to a number of the players who tried to explain the rules and aims of the game. There is a large part of the garden set in an old quarry, huge rock faces with ferns and trees perched or growing out of what appears to be nearly solid rock. One of the high lights is the Himalayan lillies, which can grow to 9 feet. The specimens we saw were more 6 foot tall but each flower about 6-8 inches, a beautiful creamy green.

Also the pocket handkerchief tree, with flowers which look as the name would suggest, just like a handkerchief (or maybe wet tissue) hanging from the branch. We had a brief look around the castle which is not exactly a complete ruin, but isn’t fully roofed or walled. The Hall I really enjoyed. When the last Middleton gave the property to English Heritage (it had terrible rot up the panelling and internal walls from many decades of leaking pipes) it was on the condition that it would not be done up or restored to its original magnificent state, but rather cleaned up and displayed in a way so as to show off its architecture. Hence apart from some 1920’s wallpaper on a few of the upstairs bedroom walls all there was was beautiful stone work including awesome Greek pillars.  Downstairs in the basement were 4 huge beer cellars and 2 large wine cellars (we reckon we know where the family fortune went!!!).  I think this is the Heritage property I have enjoyed the most, partly because of the variety of things to explore and see, especially the gorgeous garden which is more flowery and summery than many we have seen (as the season gets into full swing) and of course it all looks much nicer and more welcoming in the sunshine.

The Castle

Himalayan Lily

Pocket handkerchief tree

The library

Inside the hall

Wallpaper

We had been going to go slightly north again to see Wallington, a National Trust property on our list, but we decided rather than jam in another property we would be better served to move down the country more and arrive in Yorkshire earlier and to set up camp. Just as well really because it took us quite a lot longer than I had thought to find our way down the country. We stopped at “The Angel of the North” at Gateshead next to Newcastle an immense statue of steel designed by Antony Gormley, a sculptor  we had been introduced to (his work, not him in person) through Phillipa’s sister Eileen who had given us a gorgeous book a few years ago (unnecessarily) when she stayed at our house for a few days (and we weren’t even there).  It is a steel sculpture of an angel, standing 20 metres (66 ft) tall, with wings measuring 54 metres (177 ft) across.^[1] The wings themselves are not planar, but are angled 3.5º forward, which Gormley used to create "a sense of embrace".^[2] Work began on the project in 1994 and cost £1 million. Most of the project funding was provided by the National Lottery. The Angel was finished on 16 February 1998.
Due to its exposed location, the sculpture was built to withstand winds of over 100 mph (160 km/h). Thus, 600 tonnes of concrete were used to create foundations which anchor the sculpture to rock 70 feet (21 m) below. The sculpture was built at Hartlepool Steel Fabrications Ltd. using Corten weather resistant steel. It was made in three parts—with the body weighing 100 tonnes and two wings weighing 50 tonnes each—then brought to its site by road. It took five hours for the body to be transported from its construction site in Hartlepool, up the A19 road to the site.   (Thank you wikipedia)
It stands on a hill on the southern edge of Low Fell, overlooking the A1 and A167 roads into Tyneside, and the East Coast Main Line rail route, south of the site of Team Colliery.

Angels of the north

We had lunch in the car-park before setting off for Scarborough (Hilary’s request as she had read a book series in which the main character stays with her grandparents at a caravan site near Scarborough.  It is actually quite a way from the main route south, along narrow roads with lots of little villages where the speed limit is 30 mph. We also took a bit of a detour to avoid Sutton Bank which sounds interesting but you are warned against attempting it. In fact caravans are prohibited and there is a sign gleefully proclaiming 138 heavy goods vehicles got rescued from there last year (I don’t know if it was winter time??? The gradient is 1:4 which I gather is quite steep, I’m not sure of how long the climb or descent is, but we avoided it and drove on the suggested route for less energetic vehicles. The route we did take was certainly pretty, with paddocks of yellow, green and deep red solid patches of poppies. I got a few photos, but the best spots didn’t have safe stopping places so I’m hoping there will be an opportunity for photos when we head south west.
Anyway we arrived at this camp-ground, just tried it on spec as we couldn’t get internet  coverage. We knew there was a campsite  further through town because it is a “club one” which we belong to, but this was closer and we were getting tired. It is only £13.50 a night, which is the least by far we have come across so far, and much less than the 23 or so we would have had to shell out for the club site.

Rape and poppies