Wednesday, 22 June 2011

Farne Islands

Farne Islands
Today Saturday 18th we went to Farne Islands. In the morning we just hung out at the campsite doing  “stuff” and then girded our loins for a cool trip in the not too promising weather. Though it was showery on and off for the morning, and looked as though it may pour at anytime we managed virtually all but 10 minutes of our 2 ½ hour trip without rain which was just as well as we didn’t have a cabin on our boat.  The trip out, on Glad Tidings IV was pleasant, at times a bit see-saw like, twisting around a lot on the swell, but not too bad for a girl with a weak stomach. I guess it was about 20 minutes out to the first island, can’t remember all their names, but we just looked from the boat at the first few. The islands are owned by The National Trust and are monitored by their staff for breeding numbers and patterns etc. The islands are only open for about 3 hours a day, different times for different islands, to give the birds a break from disturbance. We also saw grey seals lounging around in the sea, and one pup doing callisthenics  on a rocky small island.

We landed on an island (Inner Farne)  with National Trust staff/ranger accommodation, which was thickly populated with birds, particularly Arctic terns, puffins, shags, and gulls of various sorts.
It was an amazing experience, quite different from the Staffa Island encounter with puffins, much busier and noisier!!! There are 160,000 nesting birds and their chicks on the islands at this time of the year, though our guide did say that thousands of guillemots had left the island the night before. The mums hop off into the sea and call their chicks who plunge off the rocks into the sea to begin their migration, they are only 3 months old and will spend the next 9 months at sea (I’m sure that’s what they said).
Anyway when we landed and disembarked at Inner Farne we were greeted by screaming terns. They had eggs and/or chicks and were very intent on telling us we were not welcome. You couldn’t help but laugh when these poor creatures swooped and dive bombed, pecked at or landed on heads. We had been forewarned and wore our raincoats and hoods to protect our scalps. They were very fierce but didn’t stand a chance against the human invasion. One decided its final strategy to make me beat a hasty retreat would be to do poos all over me, thankfully my jacket kept the guano off the rest of me (pretty wiffy it was too, I guess that’s what you get from a diet of fish!!!).  Anyway we had a wonderful opportunity to get up close and personal with various sea-birds and their chicks, it was really cool.
On the boat trip over Hilary had seen one of the crew showing a young boy how to splice a rope, she was very keen to have a look, so I encouraged her to go and join in. The sailor didn’t have time at that point as we weren’t far off landing, but he promised to show Hilary later, which he duly did. She sat while he explained then he handed the rope over to her to have a go. He couldn’t believe how quickly she grasped what to do, and was sure she must have learnt it before. She has a great ability to observe and then replicate the instruction or action, leaves me way behind, and I’m not entirely stupid.
We had a quick visit of the lifeboat station at Seahouses once we were back on shore. They had had a call out that morning, a dive boat had the emergency channel blocked with a radio problem, so the lifeboat had to go and find it and tell it off.
Most of their call-outs seem to be to rescue half-wits who ignore the warning signs on the causeway out to Holy Island and get trapped by the tide. Looking at the speed of the incoming tide at Scarborough last night I can see why it might happen, but people have to ignore a lot of warning signs to get caught, and they close the causeway for a long time before the causeway is covered. The price the idiots pay is to write off their cars, but I bet the lifeboat crews get really annoyed with them. I notice on the call out sheet at the station it says, “Two people rescued by lifeboat crew from refuge, taken to shore, and handed over to land crew.” Or words to that effect. I know they don’t have to contribute to the cost of rescue (we asked), but hopefully they have something meted out rather than just a telling off.
We had a bit of a poke around in Seahouses before heading back to our campsite at Bamburgh.


Enjoying an icecream in Seahouses

Glad Tidings IV at the dock in Seahouses

Guillemots and cormorants

Learning how to splice a rope



An arctic tern

An arctic tern chick


A puffin on watch

A gull and puffin on shared watch

A cormorant turning its eggs

A guillemot with a sand eel for its chick

The guillemot chick post fish feed

An eider duck, not to be confused with an eiderdown, though they are related of course

A gull

A tern chick and egg

Guillemot and chick

Cormorant and two large chicks

A gull and chicks



A tern coming in for a peck

Another tern baby

The lifeboat "Grace Darling"


After dinner I went for a long walk in the fields. I sort of followed a "public footpath" though it is sometimes hard to work out where they actually go across open fields, or in this case straight into an electric fence (no I stopped in time thankfully) and then very boggy, muddy, cow dungy trenches. I was wet and cold when Igot back, not from the rain but from the wet vegetation all around.
Golden wheat? oats? with purple topped grass in foreground

A field in the evening

Scarborough Beach for the Day 21.6.11

It’s  4.20am on the 22nd June. I can’t sleep have been lying awake for ages listening to the birds and watching it get light. I thought it must be about 7, so boiled the jug and opened a couple of blinds. I looked at the clock in the truck (which is still on French time), when it said 5.20 I thought maybe I was crazy and I have to add an hour, not take one off. I checked Di’s watch (on local time), it said 4.20, I still wasn’t convinced, so now I’ve checked the computer (on NZ time) and it says 3.29pm so yes, I now believe that it is perfectly light here in Scarborough on a cloudy day at 4.30 am.
I have no idea about sunrise time yesterday as it was well and truly risen when we all woke at about 8.45 yesterday, not that it was high in the sky (or it may have been, just hidden beneath or actually above a layer of cloud. Light showers had been forecast, and they did occur, along with quite heavy ones at times and at other times very pleasant sunshine. Though we are still troubled by inclement weather here in Yorkshire the temperatures at least are much improved. It is warm enough to wear tee-shirts sometimes with a layer of non-fleece over the top, sometimes it is a waterproof layer that is necessary, but not a layer and a waterproof (and merino and woollen scarves and gloves and beanies as in Scotland).
Anyway yesterday after a leisurely start to the day we headed down to Scarborough proper. It’s about 3 kms to the centre of town. We stopped at a Sainsbury’s to top up our groceries, went in for milk, butter (yes we eat real butter and it’s yummy), yoghurt, fruit, vegetables and crackers…. Came out £57 lighter off with all sorts of other “must haves”. Prices here are quite different from home. I’ll give you some, strawberries are £2 everywhere for a reasonable sized punnet. Tomatoes £2/kg. Milk is £1.39 for 2 litres ( well just over actually it comes as 4 pints) often you can get 2 for £2 so that is cheap compared to home. Meat is dear in comparison, good quality beef mince is about £10 a kilo, fresh fish varies of course depending on species but haddock or cod is about £15 I think, we buy really nice frozen fillets though which are about £4 for enough for 2 (at least) meals. So many things cost twice that in NZ i.e same number in pounds as we pay in dollars, but then some things like milk and soft cheeses are a lot cheaper. You can get a decent sized wedge of brie or camembert for about a pound, butter (plain pack) is £1.10 for 250 gms. You can get 2 litres of water for 25p, not that we tend to buy that in NZ (apart from the poor residents of ChCh) but it costs significantly more than that I’m sure, biscuits vary hugely in price but you can get a nice plain pack digestive for about 30p and chocolate coated for less than 50p. Diesel here is more expensive than petrol, it ranges from about £1.34 to 1.49/litre so I’m not sure how that compares to NZ currently, I think unleaded 91 is about 5 pence a litre cheaper than that (the truck uses diesel so I don’t notice petrol prices so much).
Anyway I digress.
After the supermarket we went down to North Esplanade and walked along the promenade and on the golden sand. It was spitting very occasionally, but humid. There were lots of kids there on school trips, digging in the sand, and lots of people just mooching. Of course there were your gorgeous English people sitting inside or just outside their brightly coloured “beach chalets” in deck-chairs,

and Hilary had a ride on a donkey on the beach. She is still just young enough to admit that it was “cool” though she tried not to let on too much. 
Hilary and Diana had a tub of ice-cream each before we headed back to get the sand toys from the van.
I made coffee and looked at some brochures before joining the others on the beach for sandcastle constructing. Hilary spent an hour and a half in bliss, directing her labourers (and labouring herself) to follow the plan she had in her head, and partially outlined in the sand. She loves the beach, and water, I think it is her Zen time, where she can truly relax and let her mind settle, a bit like gardening for me. I think though she is enjoying this time (exploration) with us, and learning heaps, and enjoying having lots of time with us, on one level she is quite stressed by it. I don’t think I realised how important routine and patterns are to her, and this not knowing what is happening, and constant change is for her very stressful. We always thought there was a touch of Asperger’s in her with her need for numbers and patterns, but this time with her, in close proximity 24 hours a day, and the stress for her is really showing some definite signs. I won’t go into details, she is entitled to some privacy, but we are talking openly with her about some of her slightly odder behaviours that may cause her a bit of teasing if she isn’t aware of them and can’t moderate them, later.
                                            

 

After our sandcastle building we sat in the van by the sea side drinking tea, while the heaven’s opened, perfect timing just by chance, Hilary was barely back in the van having put the finishing touches (well I’m not sure she was finished actually) to her castle.  Once the rain stopped we drove around the point to the South beach where all the action was. Here are the gaudy “amusement arcades” with the 2p gambling houses (not like our casinos, though there were a few slot machines/one armed bandits. These you drop a 2p coin in a slot, it rolls down onto the upper level and may or may not dislodge another 2p coin (or more) which drops down a level and where may be (but not likely) it dislodges some 2p coins or a soft toy or some other useful prize, to fall out the front of the machine for you to have. We blew 76p, and unfortunately introduced a very taken Hilary, to gambling. We wandered amongst the glitz (but no glamour) looking at shops selling fudge, nougat and Scarborough rock (you know, the candy canes with “Scarborough” written in the middle, all the length of it), past dozens of “world famous” fish and chip shops, and many more penny arcades.

It was now getting on towards 6 o’clock so we went back to the van, which was now bathed in bright sun-light, with the intention of heading back to the campsite. Hilary piped up, “we could have dinner here” looking longingly at the golden sand and sparkling sea. So she played while I made dinner in the back of the van, and then we all sat eating in the sunshine (in the truck) watching the sea race up the beach (boy the tides come in fast here, you could easily get caught out) before heading back to our campsite.
Diana is teaching Hilary how to play “500” at cards. She loves it (of course, numbers and gambling, patterns, rules……) and so she and Diana played that into the evening, while eating fresh strawberries, raspberries, meringues and double cream, after she had first done her recorder practise.                                                                                                                                             





20.6.11 Belsay Castle, Hall and Gardens


19.6.11
Today we drove from our parking spot between Belsay and Ponteveld?? Near Newcastle (upon Tyne) back a mile to the English Heritage property Belsay Hall, Gardens and Castle. We arrived just after 10 am (opening time) ready for action. It was a stunning property, the gardens were the highlight (they were on the map/brochure I’ve had for years of English gardens to visit which is how I learned about them). It is described in the English Heritage guide as “a fine medieval castle, enlarged into a Jacobean mansion; the imposing Greek Revival villa that succeeded it; and the outstanding plant-rich gardens linking the two buildings.” It was all created by the Middleton family over more than seven centuries, started with the castle in the 14th century.




We were there on a sunny day, we started with the garden as it is the highlight and also because we have learnt not to expect the day to stay sunny even if the sky is bright blue without a cloud around. It was actually quite warm and pleasant. We started with the terraces, watched the croquet club playing, and later got chatting to a number of the players who tried to explain the rules and aims of the game. There is a large part of the garden set in an old quarry, huge rock faces with ferns and trees perched or growing out of what appears to be nearly solid rock. One of the high lights is the Himalayan lillies, which can grow to 9 feet. The specimens we saw were more 6 foot tall but each flower about 6-8 inches, a beautiful creamy green.








Also the pocket handkerchief tree, with flowers which look as the name would suggest, just like a handkerchief (or maybe wet tissue) hanging from the branch. We had a brief look around the castle which is not exactly a complete ruin, but isn’t fully roofed or walled. The Hall I really enjoyed. When the last Middleton gave the property to English Heritage (it had terrible rot up the panelling and internal walls from many decades of leaking pipes) it was on the condition that it would not be done up or restored to its original magnificent state, but rather cleaned up and displayed in a way so as to show off its architecture. Hence apart from some 1920’s wallpaper on a few of the upstairs bedroom walls all there was was beautiful stone work including awesome Greek pillars.  Downstairs in the basement were 4 huge beer cellars and 2 large wine cellars (we reckon we know where the family fortune went!!!).  I think this is the Heritage property I have enjoyed the most, partly because of the variety of things to explore and see, especially the gorgeous garden which is more flowery and summery than many we have seen (as the season gets into full swing) and of course it all looks much nicer and more welcoming in the sunshine.


The Castle


Himalayan Lily

Pocket handkerchief tree

The library

Inside the hall


Wallpaper


We had been going to go slightly north again to see Wallington, a National Trust property on our list, but we decided rather than jam in another property we would be better served to move down the country more and arrive in Yorkshire earlier and to set up camp. Just as well really because it took us quite a lot longer than I had thought to find our way down the country. We stopped at “The Angel of the North” at Gateshead next to Newcastle an immense statue of steel designed by Antony Gormley, a sculptor  we had been introduced to (his work, not him in person) through Phillipa’s sister Eileen who had given us a gorgeous book a few years ago (unnecessarily) when she stayed at our house for a few days (and we weren’t even there).  It is a steel sculpture of an angel, standing 20 metres (66 ft) tall, with wings measuring 54 metres (177 ft) across.[1] The wings themselves are not planar, but are angled 3.5ยบ forward, which Gormley used to create "a sense of embrace".[2] Work began on the project in 1994 and cost £1 million. Most of the project funding was provided by the National Lottery. The Angel was finished on 16 February 1998.
Due to its exposed location, the sculpture was built to withstand winds of over 100 mph (160 km/h). Thus, 600 tonnes of concrete were used to create foundations which anchor the sculpture to rock 70 feet (21 m) below. The sculpture was built at Hartlepool Steel Fabrications Ltd. using Corten weather resistant steel. It was made in three parts—with the body weighing 100 tonnes and two wings weighing 50 tonnes each—then brought to its site by road. It took five hours for the body to be transported from its construction site in Hartlepool, up the A19 road to the site.   (Thank you wikipedia)
It stands on a hill on the southern edge of Low Fell, overlooking the A1 and A167 roads into Tyneside, and the East Coast Main Line rail route, south of the site of Team Colliery.





Angels of the north


We had lunch in the car-park before setting off for Scarborough (Hilary’s request as she had read a book series in which the main character stays with her grandparents at a caravan site near Scarborough.  It is actually quite a way from the main route south, along narrow roads with lots of little villages where the speed limit is 30 mph. We also took a bit of a detour to avoid Sutton Bank which sounds interesting but you are warned against attempting it. In fact caravans are prohibited and there is a sign gleefully proclaiming 138 heavy goods vehicles got rescued from there last year (I don’t know if it was winter time??? The gradient is 1:4 which I gather is quite steep, I’m not sure of how long the climb or descent is, but we avoided it and drove on the suggested route for less energetic vehicles. The route we did take was certainly pretty, with paddocks of yellow, green and deep red solid patches of poppies. I got a few photos, but the best spots didn’t have safe stopping places so I’m hoping there will be an opportunity for photos when we head south west.
Anyway we arrived at this camp-ground, just tried it on spec as we couldn’t get internet  coverage. We knew there was a campsite  further through town because it is a “club one” which we belong to, but this was closer and we were getting tired. It is only £13.50 a night, which is the least by far we have come across so far, and much less than the 23 or so we would have had to shell out for the club site.






Rape and poppies