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| The road coming up to the pass. It climbs up from the Lake (Windermere) and then a final steep part coming up behind the brow on the left.The road is called "The Struggle" our van can attest to that! |
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| The pub at the top of the pass |
Di and I fiddled about while Hilary did some maths, and some music practise. We were skyped by my neice Kate, who filled us in on her life and Christchurch. After a prolonged maths session, we headed off to go for a walk along part of Hadrian's Wall. We went to a disused ....quarry which had a protection order placed on it in I think the 70's, or more correctly against it, because the quarrying was ruining the Wall. As a result of the order the quarry ceased production and the hole was filled with water and prettified for use as a recreation area.
We walked along beside the Wall for about 5kms to the West before turning round and heading back again. The views were stunning, really high up, with far reaching out-looks, no wonder the Romans chose to build a wall and forts there 1800+ years ago.
We walked along the wall to the West for about 3 miles before turning around and going back to the van. As you can see in the photos it isn't flat, but quite steep up and downs. Hilary did very well for a girl who protests at the mention of a walk. She finds the history fascinating though, and as ever splurts out little historical facts pertinent to her environment as we wander along. We kept her distracted from the walking with memory games,which taxed us all, "I went to market and I bought .... we got to 24 items before we got bored, thankfully not far from the end. It is amazing to think we were walking in the footsteps of the Romans and that they had been in those very places. Also amazing to think that they built that wall, in places 6 metres high, including forts, turrets, milecastles and all how long? I can't remember (73 miles, I just googled it!) in 7 years, cut the stone, hauled it up cliffs and high peaks, in the cold and wet, snow and all, with bare legs and not much clothing.... unbelievable, you tell the young people today,......
Anyway a testament to their fortitude and determination. I've learnt heaps about the Romans and their time in Britain, all new to me. Just as a complete contrast, as we walked (it was sunny, did I tell you that? My feet stayed dry all day, but it was freezing up on the exposed slopes with a helluva wind powering through), part of the RAF did some low level flying in some jetty things. They were powering it too! You'd hear them, look up, and they were almost out of sight before you could pick them up in the sky, they were so far ahead of their sound. There are obviously a few bases around here, the first exposure to the jets was when we were driving over from the Lake District, one went over us on the M6, I just about wet myself, not knowing what was happening to the van!!!!
After lunch we went and visited Houseteads Roman Fort which was "Vercovicium" "the place of effective fighters" in Roman times. It was garrisoned by about 1000 infantry in its time, and had headquarters, a commandants house (with central heating), barracks, hospital and communal latrines. It had four gateways which were still discernable one of which had channels in the rock caused by repeated wear of carriage wheels entering from the main road.
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| The Eastern Gateway |
Groove in rock from iron carriage wheels
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| Some treasures excavated from the site over the years |
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| The granary with raised floor boards to allow ventilation and reduce infestation by vermin. |
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| Hilary in the "centrally heated" commandant's house. Hot air from the kitchen was blown under the raised floor boards to warm his living area. Boy would they have needed it!!!! |
We drove back to the camp-site we had been unable to find the previous evening which we had noted on our drive to the wall. Same price as the "Marie Celeste" and much more homely, beside a river, in a clearing in the forest. Our spot bathed in late afternoon/early evening sunshine.
It's now the 21st. Friday.
I'm told the world ends tomorrow, so i may be writing this in vain.... many of you will reach tomorrow before I do, in fact it is just after 8am Saturday in NZ already, I wonder what time the world is supposed to end? your time or ours?
The day started with promise, sunshine when we opened our blinds, but by the time we had eaten breakfast, showered and prepared for the day, it was pouring. We did domestic things instead of going out and about. Hilary had a very worthwhile, long and rewarding recorder lesson on Skype (about an hour in the end), then she Skyped Liz, did half an hours maths, and a bit of reading. I did a bit of stitching, a bit of blogging and emailchecking and made a chicken casserole (Maisy Simms) for dinner. Di did paperwork, I can't remember what. We had lunch at midday and then as the rain stopped we risked an outing. We headed off to Birdoswald Fort, not nearly as complete as Housesteads Fort, though the inside displays were far more comprehensive. It was too cold to enjoy though, despite the sunshine (at times) there was a freezing blizzard blowing which cut through the 4 layers (including my gore-tex coat) chilling me to the bones and making me just want to get back to the van.
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| View from the fort looking down to the ?Tyne? |
From here we travelled back along the military road to the Roman Army Museum. Hilary and I went in (Hilary was really keen so I went with her though I didn't feel that excitedat the prospect. Di saved 5 quid and had solace in the van for an hour or so.
The museum was actually really good. A superb 3D movie depeicting an eagle flying over Hadrian's Wall in this district, both in the current day (with great aerial video in 3D) and an enactment with set of how it would have been 1800 years ago. I pity those poor buggers, it wasn't uncommon to march 25 miles a day with 50kgs of gear (is that really possible?) and they didn't have modern equipment, they barely even had footwear. They also used to practice fighting when nothing else was happening, apparently that was far more likely to end in injury or worse than real warfare!! They used wooden swords filled with lead to practice so that when it came to using the real thing it would be lighter and easier to manoeuver and they wouldbe really strong from all their practice. Other great audio-visual displays, one an enactment of a soldiers diary really helpful in portraying life for a soldier in those days. Also lots of treasures unearthed, shoes, buckles, coins, jewellery, spear heads as well as pieces of carvedstone, religious symbols and decorations for buildings etc.
No photos allowed, so you'll just have to take my word for it.
We came back here to the campsite,stopping to buy milk and to take a photo of a coal distributers which took Di's fancy.
After dinner (very nice it was too, Maisy Simms chicken with rice, brocolli and a thing called "English spring greens" which is a brasicca I'm sure, crossed between a cabbage and brocolli without a head. Really tasty lightly steamed with black pepper and a bit of butter, not killed by an English cook,boiled until yellow and mushy.
After dinner we had a short stroll down to the river, Hilary threw some bread to the non-existant ducks and wanted to build a dam in the river. We were mean and said, "no, it's too late and cold." (and we want a cup of tea). we have come to an agreement that if it is sunny tomorrow (we would be pushing it to expect warmth) and she gets her maths and writing and music done promptly she can play down by the river for a couple of hours and we will all go for a big walk from here on a National Trust Pathway through the forest and farmland in the afternoon. She isn't so keen on the walk idea, but is very keen to have a day not out and about.
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| The South Tyne River about a hundred metres from our campervan. |
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